Stone Park Café’s homepage touts its review from Frank Bruni “piquing surprises and consoling favorites, one that establishes a personality of sophisticated robustness…” Can this be Park Slope’s American fine dining at its best? Hold that thought.
A very American and contemporary driven menu—extensive wine list—with high prices: appetizers are above $10; and entrees (except the $14 burger) range from the mid-to-high $20s. The menu, décor and prices are very similar to the mother of Contemporary American, Gramery Traven—a la carte. So, shouldn’t the food be similar too? Far from it.
A Pan Seared Diver Scallops served with rock shrimp, fava beans, asparagus risotto, lobster beurre 27 sounds like a sort of meal served in Gramercy Traven (about the same price) is executed poorly at Stone Park. The risotto was salty leaving a depressing aftertaste that did not go well with overcooked rock shrimp.
Stone Park is a fine restaurant with an attentive staff with smooth cotton table linens and slightly over-exaggerated prices. There are good points: a romantic and unwind atmosphere, courtesy staff, pre fixe option, and kudos on the warm and toasty whole wheat baguette. It was really good.
It’s for the sophisticated Brooklyn couple who wants to stay close to home and enjoy an elegant meal made by an educated culinary chef (with mediocre execution). There is nothing wrong with that. But the price can go down. And aren’t we still recovering from a recession?
Back to the Bruni’s quote: he was complimenting the impressive assembly of the menu. Not on the food.
324 5th Avenue (between 2nd St & 3rd St) Brooklyn, NY 11215 (718) 369-0082 www.stoneparkcafe.com/
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