Sunday, December 13, 2009

Chavella's

They serve brunch, Mexican style. Packed with regulars in an uncomfortably small space where you are inevitably elbowing those next to you and unintentionally playing footise with the person across from you.

Slightly bothered by the lack of breathing room, my attention soon shifted as I learned every dish in the menu has some variation of eggs in it. For the egg lover, rejoice. For the cholesterol counter, you’re stuck.

For under $12, the brunch includes sweet Mexican bread and beverage: sangria, tea/ coffee or mango juice. The dishes are well seasoned—perhaps to the sensitive Brunch goer, the flavors may be too much to handle—and well portioned so you won’t leave feeling too full or dog-hungry, either. Somewhere in between. I was put off by the additional charge on sauce which was forcefully accommodated by tortilla chips.

Head to Chavella's, if you are in the definite mood for Mexican fare, because if it’s a Turkey BLT and a fruit salad that you seek to cure the hangover; head over to Tom’s, a block up.

FYI: Do try the Omelete de Nopales with cactus. Don’t plan on gathering a fiesta here, a table of four takes up half the restaurant.

Chavella's 732 Classon Ave Brooklyn, NY 11238 (718) 622-3100 www.chavellas.com

Sunday, November 22, 2009

The Smoke joint

The Smoke joint has a full house on a Wednesday night. Fort Greene is craving BBQ and it shows. Equipped with a bar to eat or wait at, I graze over at what people are eating while sipping on my ginger ale. I sought out dry looking ribs at several tables. By the time it is our turn to order, I discover the Baby Back Ribs lean and mean (half 12.00) happens to be the same dry ribs. So dry—you would mistake it for microwaved-leftover-chicken breast from nights before. Perhaps it was meant to be eaten with the BBQ sauce (stationed on every table). But I refuse to mask the delicate flavor of the baby back with an outside condiment—at least, not on the very first bite. I soon forfeited, as it is not possible to get pass the second bite without the sauce.

Next order Crispy Catfish Sandwich served with barbecue aioli (7.50) is fairly tasty if you disregard looking at the catfish—or shall I say catfishes—three awkwardly looking nugget-sized pieces of fish resembling those from the childhood days of cafeteria food served on styrofoam trays. Despite the disfigured shapes, the sandwich fared well. One key part to the sandwich’s success was the toasted Kaiser roll which added an extra layer of crunchiness to the crispy catfish.

Sides. From least to favorite:
Barbecued Beans caution. contains hunks of meat (3.00) – should be called candied beans caution, overly sweet, overwhelming the smoky flavor

Corn On The Cob, barbecue aioli and green onions (2.50) – fairly seasoned and juicy

Spicy French Fries (3.00) – very well seasoned and nicely fried with a bold crunchy taste

If you’re trapped in Font Greene and in need for a BBQ fix, Smoke joint can help, sort of. Sandwiches are a safe bet. And if you’re a party of three you will be squeezed into a table for two.

The food is fairly priced for a very gentrified Fort Greene, though attracting a diverse crowd of people. Conclusion: BBQ definitely does not discriminate.

87 South Elliott Pl At Lafayette Ave. Brooklyn NY 11217 (718) 797-1011

Friday, November 20, 2009

Stone Park Café

Stone Park Café’s homepage touts its review from Frank Bruni “piquing surprises and consoling favorites, one that establishes a personality of sophisticated robustness…” Can this be Park Slope’s American fine dining at its best? Hold that thought.

A very American and contemporary driven menu—extensive wine list—with high prices: appetizers are above $10; and entrees (except the $14 burger) range from the mid-to-high $20s. The menu, décor and prices are very similar to the mother of Contemporary American, Gramery Traven—a la carte. So, shouldn’t the food be similar too? Far from it.

A Pan Seared Diver Scallops served with rock shrimp, fava beans, asparagus risotto, lobster beurre 27 sounds like a sort of meal served in Gramercy Traven (about the same price) is executed poorly at Stone Park. The risotto was salty leaving a depressing aftertaste that did not go well with overcooked rock shrimp.

Stone Park is a fine restaurant with an attentive staff with smooth cotton table linens and slightly over-exaggerated prices. There are good points: a romantic and unwind atmosphere, courtesy staff, pre fixe option, and kudos on the warm and toasty whole wheat baguette. It was really good.

It’s for the sophisticated Brooklyn couple who wants to stay close to home and enjoy an elegant meal made by an educated culinary chef (with mediocre execution). There is nothing wrong with that. But the price can go down. And aren’t we still recovering from a recession?

Back to the Bruni’s quote: he was complimenting the impressive assembly of the menu. Not on the food.


324 5th Avenue (between 2nd St & 3rd St) Brooklyn, NY 11215 (718) 369-0082 www.stoneparkcafe.com/

Monday, October 19, 2009

Pates et Traditions

The French corner storefront is adorable and cutely decorated, you will forget you are in faddy Williamsburg. The rosy and soft décor makes you smile in a rainy Fall evening.

The service is just as charming. The owner is French; a lovely petite woman who happens to be the server recommends several of her favorite dishes: La Socca, a specialty pancake-like comfort food from Nice, made of organic chickpeas flour cooked in olive oil seasoned with ground pepper. Not familiar with this dish, it was appreciably tasty but deeply charred; and poorly handled. With some eager research: traditional la socca should not be overly burnt but slightly toasted brown. My la socca lost its traditional pancake form; it was overcooked and served in broken pieces with chunks of burnt marks. Despite the technique, chickpeas and freshly ground pepper are a flavorsome pairing.

Specializing in crepes: both sweet and savory; the most selective eaters can find something for themselves in this fairly extended crepe menu. Crepes are made with whole buckwheat; served in healthy sized portions with mixed greens. For the goat cheese lover; opt for the La Chevre with green tapenade. The highlight of my meal comes during dessert: a warm crepe topped with scoops of vanilla ice cream drizzled with homemade chocolate sauce and whipped cream.

Don’t expect a three star chef in the kitchen but if light and basic fare with a darling décor and charming ambiance is what you seek, then Pates et Traditions welcomes you with open daisies. The service is exceptionally attentive; and it has French admirers coming back for more.

Pates et Traditions 52 Havemeyer St, Brooklyn 11211 (At N 6th St) (646) 409-4019

Tebaya

Take-out could not get any tastier. Literally. The crispy tender double fried wings are undeniably good. Recently featured in the New York Times as one of the best wings spot; these japanese style wings—bearing a distinct similarity to Korean fried chicken—bring standard buffalo wings to disgrace.

My three criteria for determining tasty wings: crunchy exterior; tender moist center; and a rich distinguishing sauce. Tebaya satisfies all three categories principally with its uniquely addictive sweet and spicy sauce. The barely battered wings are fried twice; the first fry: seals the flavor; and the second fry: magnifies the crunch factor. Dousing the finishing fried product with a rich Mahoney sauce made of soy sauce, mirin (sweet rice wine), black pepper and sesame seeds creates a matrimony of flavors and textures.

Opened since 2006—I wonder why I haven’t discover this earlier—this little take-out spot has some big bold flavored wings that every wing fanatic should scout out. Those who are fortunate to work in the vicinity will find its lunch special to be absolutely gratifying. Tebaya is open everyday til 9:45pm.

Tebaya Japanese Fried Chicken Wings 144A W 19th St, New York, NY (212) 924-3335 ‎

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Caracas Arepa Bar

A revisit. An unfamiliar experience from three years ago. There is a line for take-out. It is crowded, busy and booming on a Tuesday night. Caracas Arepa is a destination for yuppies; the young: rich and poor to satisfy their Venezuelan craving. Though these cravings do not come cheap. One specialty arepa goes for $7-$8: the size of these pitalike pockets resembles the dimension of a burger from White Castle, aka slider. This is not to say, these arepas are fast food. It is not: Caracas Arepa makes it very clear that every order is made-to-order and hence, the long wait. $8 gives you about four to five bites: a very meek portion.

In spite of high prices, the arepas are tasty; packed in flavor; warm and toasty to the touch. Be prepared to have multiple orders. I recommend the La Sureña: grilled chicken and chorizo, with avocado slices with spicy chimi-churri sauce-—a good dose of herb and spices.

Perhaps the lack of NYC’s Venezuelan food fare; yuppies and hipsters fad-making may have exaggerated the quality of its food; the long lines and wait may have created this illusion that the food is better and fresher than it truly is.

Despite the ponderous remarks, Caracas Arepas is here to stay—-even during these economic times, it manages to open a second shop in Williamsburg. Suffice to say, they have a niche and a very strong following.


CARACAS AREPA BAR 93 1/2 E 7 Street, New York, NY 10009. TEL 212.529.2314 www.caracasarepabar.com

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Michael Pollan's Omnivore's Dilemma

"So we find ourselves as a species almost back where we started: anxious omnivores struggling once again to figure out what it is wise to eat. Instead of relying on the accumulated wisdom of a cuisine, or even on the wisdom of our senses, we rely on expert opinion, advertising, government food pyramids, and diet books, and we place our faith in science to sort out for us what culture once did with rather more success. Such has been the genius of capitalism, to re-create something akin to a state of nature in the modern supermarket or fast-food outlet, throwing us back on a perplexing, nutritionally perilous landscape deeply shadowed again by the omnivore's dilemma."